Best for: shorter hair (2 to 3 inches (5. 1 to 7. 6 cm)) Advantages: locs stay uniform through all the growth stages; easy to do Disadvantages: can hurt your scalp as you’re putting them in; water can cause the coils to unravel easily; requires a lot of maintenance in the beginning; can take a long time to coil longer hair
Best for: straight hair or looser textures Advantages: simple methods if you have straight or fine hair; consistent result Disadvantages: hair more prone to breakage than with other start methods; locs require more daily maintenance in the beginning
Best for: hair 4 inches (10 cm) or longer; straight hair; processed hair Advantages: super easy method; gentle for fine or damaged hair Disadvantages: locs require a lot of daily maintenance and palm rolling in the beginning; can take a while for locs to tighten up
Best for: hair 4 inches (10 cm) or longer; straighter, looser textures Advantages: locs up faster than comb coils; tighter, neater Disadvantages: locs require more daily maintenance in the beginning; can take a while for them to start looking like locs rather than twists
Best for: very short hair; coarser hair textures with a tight curl pattern Advantages: easy; gives you a more natural, freeform look Disadvantages: locs are slow to develop; locs won’t be structured or uniform
Best for: hair 5 inches (13 cm) or longer; straighter, looser textures that won’t hold a coil or twist Advantages: water doesn’t unravel braids, so great if you’re in the water a lot; hair stays neat throughout your loc journey[9] X Research source Disadvantages: can take some time for the braid to give way to a loc appearance; can look flat rather than cylindrical; takes a long time to install because of all the braiding
Best for: hair with a finer texture; straight or wavy hair (but works with any hair type) Advantages: get the look you want quickly Disadvantages: can break hair and thin roots; can leave a lasting pattern in your hair; can take a long time to put in (10+ hours if you have a lot of long hair)
Best for: any hair texture or length Advantages: easy to do; doesn’t require any tools or products; near-instantaneous locs Disadvantages: can be time-consuming to put in; can cause breakage; puts a lot of stress on your roots and scalp
Best for: coarse hair textures with a tight curl pattern Advantages: low maintenance; doesn’t require any tools or products Disadvantages: could take up to 2 years for locs to form; no control over final look
Best for: coarse hair textures with a tight curl pattern Advantages: more styleable than other types of locs; can be done on relaxed or chemically treated hair Disadvantages: must be put in by a professional; can take 8-10 hours to put in; may take up to 2 years for your hair to fully loc[14] X Research source
Best for: any hair texture or length Advantages: locs look great from day one; easily removed; can experiment with colors and textures; add fullness to your hair; ultimate control over final look Disadvantages: can get pricey if done by a professional; can be heavy and put strain on your head and neck if you’re not used to wearing extensions
If you start your locs using a crochet or interlock method, you won’t go through this phase because those methods are designed to mimic a later phase of loc development. Use this phase to establish a system for maintaining your locs and set your routine so your locs are as hassle-free as possible and you won’t run into any problems.
If you started your locs with twists or braids, the twist or braid pattern starts to diminish and might even disappear completely. During this phase, retwist or palm roll your locs every 3-4 weeks to tighten and contract them. The process of expanding and contracting helps your locs mature. [21] X Research source
This is typically the time during the loc journey when people start questioning their decision to get locs. It’s a hump that you just have to get over to get the locs you want. Because the budding process is complete, teenage locs give you an idea of the thickness your mature locs will ultimately be.
If you have looser textured hair, your ends may never seal. [24] X Research source Towards the end of the adult phase, you know what your locs are ultimately going to look like. They all have a relatively uniform appearance and all traces of your starting method have disappeared.
You might also want to get a silk or satin pillowcase as additional insurance for your hair in case your scarf slips off at night.
Avoid coconut oil or olive oil. While they can be fine when mixed with other oils, they don’t provide enough moisture on their own. [27] X Research source
This also means not swimming or getting your locs wet for 4 weeks. It’s the water that does the damage to your style, not the act of shampooing itself.
Natural, residue-free shampoo is most important in the beginning phases because your locs are looser and more prone to picking up dust and debris. [30] X Research source There are shampoos specifically made for locs. While you can use one of these, it’s not strictly necessary. The most important thing is that any shampoo you use rinses cleanly and doesn’t leave any residue behind. Never use a deep-conditioner on your locs—deep conditioners are designed to leave residue and you don’t want any residue in your locs. It’s fine to condition your hair, but make sure it all washes out and don’t leave it on your hair for too long. [31] X Research source
Before you wrap your locs in the towel, squeeze them out really well. They soak up a lot of water, so squeezing them out will help them dry more quickly. If you have a lot of hair or your locs are really dense, you might want to use a hairdryer to dry them completely. They can grow mildew if you let them stay damp for hours on end.
Expect your head to be a little sore for a day or two after you tighten your locs. This is normal and just happens because your scalp isn’t used to so much stimulation. Wait at least 4 weeks before you do this for the first time—that gives your locs time to thicken up. [34] X Research source
If locs merge together, it can be very painful to get them separated. It also typically means a trip to a loctician to fix them, but you can avoid that by paying attention to them and separating them when you need to.
You can use tighter styles with mature locs, but newer locs are far more prone to breakage and damage. For an easy style, decorate your locs with jewelry.
Embrace the changes that your hair is making. During the loc journey, you’ll see your hair in a whole new light and understand it better than you ever did. If you do decide that locs are not for you, you don’t have to shave your head! You can comb out your locs and your hair will be just as healthy as it was when you started.
